Kashmir’s hand woven Pashmina shawls are treasured the world over. Transforming exceptionally warm and delicate Cashmere threads taken from the fleece of Changthangi goats, which are found in Ladakh (14,000 feet above sea level), into exquisite shawls and other fine accessories, is an art in itself.
The Pashmina industry in the past was once dominated by women, but suffered a setback due to poor government support and policies, so much so it has reached a point where just around five percent of the workers are female.
Last year, Jammu and Kashmir Lt Governor Manoj Sinha had launched the Rural Enterprises Acceleration Programme called “Saath” to give a boost to Self Help Groups (SHGs) for women. Today, according to government data, there are 48000 SHGs in Jammu and Kashmir to which about four lakh women are connected.
The “Saath” initiative lays emphasis on mentoring and establishing market links for products created by women.
A team from Brighter Kashmir visited one of these self-help group centers for women recently to get a sense about how the lives of women have been transformed, making them more independent, socially and financially secure by making these Pashmina shawls and accessories.
The Brighter Kashmir team interviewed two women at the center. Following is the interview:
Q: What was it like working before and how does it feel being self-employed?
A: Before when I used to work, I used to get paid on the basis of the work done. I used to work on a traditional charkha, but the earnings were not that great. Now I am using a more mechanised charkha, which is very satisfying to work on and gives me a better income.
Q: What is the kind of work you were doing before?
A: I was doing a similar kind of work, but that was on a more traditional charkha and this is a more modernised one and easy to operate on and weave.
Q: What is the difference between the two types of charkha?
A: The difference is that on the traditional charkha, one had to use both hands, but now, in the mechanised one, I only have to use one hand and can produce the same quality of shawl. This machine is of greater benefit to all of us.
Q: How much time does it take to make one Pashmina shawl?
A: It takes about 15 days.
Q: How many women are working in this establishment?
A: Many women are working here, they keep coming and going. They train here, acquire the skills and move on. They benefit a lot by working in centers like ours. This is a center where we hand weave Pashmina shawls. There are other such places also.
Another woman spoke to Brighter Kashmir, revealed that before she used to train women in one group from 10 a.m. in the morning till 4 p.m. in the evening, but when the workload increased, she created two groups.
Q: What is the difference between the old charkha and the new charkha?
A: There is a huge difference. Recently, when I had to present a sample, I told my supervisor that I was finding it difficult to do it on the traditional charkha and that I wanted to work on a better charkha. When I started working on the mechanised charkha, I must have used two or three threads of the yarn; I had to make a sample of six grams, and managed to do it in the time allotted to me.
Q: So if we were to ask you how much does the current system of weaving help women, how much does it help in terms of getting employment, what would you say?
A: It helps a lot. Ever since I have come here, I have started work on this new type of charkha. It has been of great benefit to me. There is both benefit as well as exercise. I tell people who come here to learn and pick up this skill and if they have anyone else who is interested, they should bring them along too because they can benefit as well.
Q: What do the students do after they get trained?
A: Women receive free training here. There is no fee and they do not have to pay anything. When they go out of here to find work, they get Rs.1; here they get Rs.1.50. That is why there is great benefit in working in self-help groups like ours. When they know that they benefitting by working here, the women come here.
Q: How many students have you trained till now?
A: I have trained about 40 women. There are 40 machines here. They are still here working with me.
Q: Is this center working under any scheme? Who is guiding you?
A: No, we are not working under any scheme. We have three or four ladies who give us guidance. They teach and train us, and then we start doing it ourselves. The work environment here is much better than before.
Q: How difficult is it for women to take up work, or this activity?
A: It is very difficult. A woman faces a lot of problems and difficulties in life and also when taking up this sort of work. She has to earn for herself, she has to earn for her children. I believe that though a man works, the woman always has to do much more.
Q: If we were to ask you how hard it was to earn in the old days and how easy it is to earn these days, what would you say?
A: It was not at all easy in the old days, very difficult to earn, we did not earn much, but now, we are earning better and benefitting a lot. Since we have got these machines, we have benefited a lot and we earn well.
Q: How would you describe the overall experience?
A: This has been a great and good experience. I would say it is one of the best experiences I have had. These machines that we have now are good both for our legs and hands.
Q: Who would you like to give credit for these machines?
A: I would like to give credit to those people who have created these machines/charkhis. We are very grateful to them.
The union territory government plans to create 11,000 more SHGs in 2022 and believes this will help to transform the lives of women in Kashmir.