Kashmir is full of life, laughter, joy, happiness, beauty, love and all good things, despite being in a bad light year-round. What you see in news isn’t the only side. In fact, it is not even 1% of what Kashmir really is.

The valley has been named as ‘heaven on earth’ for its picturesque landscapes but I don’t think it would ‘feel’ like heaven if it weren’t for the welcoming nature of its people. Yes, there is underlying anger, suffering and hurt; you see it in their eyes and hear it in their pauses, but none of it is directed towards a visitor.
A visitor here is embraced like an old friend. You’d be walking down a lane and pass plenty of faces adorning an acknowledging smile. If you sit next to one of them, you’d hear the story of their past, present and future. You may even be invited for lunch or dinner. If not, you definitely will end up sipping a cup of Kehwa with them.
But, how can I say it with such conviction? Because it all happened to me.
I remember my first visit to Kashmir. Aug 2019. No doubt, I had my qualms. But as I struck up a conversation with one of the locals, all my inhibitions were gone. They treated me as one of their own. Opened their house doors to me, shared a meal, gave lift and even gifts. All that I hadn’t expected, happened. In Aru, when I stayed in a local’s house, they complied with my wishes and served vegan food – which doesn’t happen without resistance in my own house, lol.
That’s what beauty of Kashmiris is – their insaniyat and mehman-nawazy
Having travelled to Kashmir many times, I write this long-due article to tell you that it is completely safe to travel here. It is safe for your birthday trips, weekend trips, honeymoon trips or solo backpacking trips. Trust me, you will fall in love with its beauty and without a doubt its people too.
~ Now any guess what LAC stands for? It's Love and Care of Kashmir.
Kashmir's LAC is genuinely something you’d never witness anywhere else in the world. You can’t get enough of the Mehmaan - Nawaazi; it is something that runs in their blood. You’d be addicted to it! Kashmiris would never fail to help you whenever you're in need; they'll always open their homes and hearts to you. And what happens beyond that will be a story you’d tell to the world.
I know just the words won't do justice. So, here are my experiences from all the border villages of Kashmir I have been to until now and the LAC I found there.

Chakwali, Gurez

I remember visiting Chakwali village of Gurez on my very first trip to Kashmir. My friend Mir, generously took me there despite his busy schedule – Kashmiriyat, I tell you! We drove all the way from Srinagar to Dawar, crossing the magnificent Wular Lake and the crowded streets of Bandipora. As we reached Razdaan Pass, I was literally blown by the beauty in front of my eyes. We took a night halt in Dawar.
I woke up early to witness the first light on the colossal peak of Habba Khaatoon. Spent some time wandering in the streets of Dawar, sipping a few cups of Kehwa with beautiful strangers and took all the details of visiting the last possible village before border.
One rare time when it was more about the destination than the journey. And we had our fair share of difficulties in reaching Chakwaali; from permits to water crossings, it wasn’t something we were prepared for. But all along the locals went out of their ways to help us whenever we needed support.
A group of kids came running towards the car as we reached Chakwaali; they were of all ages. Some were specially-abled, some were shy, some were friendly but they had one thing in common - love and care for visitors. These pretty as picture kids invited us to their homes but we couldn’t go as we had less time on our plate. I chatted and asked what they all wish to be when they grow up - all had chosen profession in mind - doctor, engineer, army officer, police officer, teacher - you name it!
What I brought back from that place is memory - a memory of their honest smile and carefree laughter.

Tithwal, Tangdhar

I visited Tithwal on a very recent trip to Kashmir. The journey started from Baramulla early morning, crossing the Sadhana Pass. It’s a pass that separates Tangdhar bowl from rest of Kashmir valley. We had to drive for around 5 hours on some crazy roads, beholding breath-taking views, to reach Tithwal.
It is a village right on the border of India-Pakistan. A village that has survived many cease-fire violations from Pakistan. The population is majorly Muslims who have suffered numerous injuries via snipers and artillery shelling from Pakistan. Despite, their spirit and soul is brave and Indian. A village that is just like any other village but separated by a river faces Pakistan in their eye.
Needless to say, despite all the odds & hard life of its people, they are welcoming and kind. They aren't educated much but learned in the art of humanity and hospitality. The love and care they have for everyone is beyond words.
We got a chance to meet a civilian who was injured during a ceasefire violation in July 2019. He said, 'I still feel the terror of that morning when I got the bullet in my ankle'. I realised, no matter how excited we were to visit this border village, life here isn't as normal as we assumed.
While I was lost in such thoughts, an uncle came to me, interested in knowing what I do and how I do, my whereabouts and lifestyle. Only after 10 minutes into the conversation, he asked me to come to his home and meet his daughters. He wanted me to teach them a thing or two in order to have a bright, hopeful future. When I told him I am short of time, he asked if I could come back to his village and stay for a few days.
Isn't that just beautiful? Aren't we lacking this humility and love after living in the cities?

Kamalkot, Uri

Honestly, I knew about Uri only because of the movie and the militant attack. I had no clue about it otherwise but deep down, I was excited to visit one of its villages.
Starting from Baramulla, we reached Kamalkot in a few hours. It was another village proximate to the border. On reaching, I was very happy to see the majority of young girls in the village. Usually, the girls I had met in Kashmir were very shy and introvert. But here, they were confident, ambitious and fluent - specifically in English (learning this language isn't mandatory, but it ultimately reflects quality education in our country).
I asked them about their dreams and goals, to which one said, “Like you, I want to be strong and independent.” I was blown. I wanted to help them as they have calibre, the potential. It is just, they have very limited resources and methods.
Post this session, we went to Masjid Shariff - a pious shrine accessible to very few. I had nothing to cover my head when an uncle requested me to take his handkerchief. When I hesitated, he said it was brand new, I don't have to worry about corona. My heart was full. I mean, am I just very lucky to meet these kind souls or is it just the how Kashmir is?
I witnessed such kindness again when I met the sarpanch of Kamalkot. She told me how difficult it is to live there. Then the talks of its people and their determination began which eventually led to the question if I could spare a few days or weeks from my schedule and live there with them. If you were in my place, won’t you feel like going back to them? Again and again?
All this love and care makes me want to go back and visit them and tell them how much it means to me.
Already waiting to head back to Kashmir! Maybe spend some weeks in one of the border villages, teaching its young kids and learning with them - doing anything I can to help them in any way possible.