Kashmiris don’t use the Pheran only in winters; this culture has been nurtured by our ancestors for generations and continues even in summer. Our elderly women still wear the Pheran throughout the year, only the fabric changes with the season, while the tradition of covering the whole body remains the same.
Civilization is defined in many ways, language, food, architecture and art, but clothing often carries a deeper, more intimate imprint of identity. In the case of Kashmir, Pheran (Pharan) is more than a garment. It is history draped in wool, warmth stitched into culture, and an aesthetic shaped by centuries of collective memory. The people of Jammu and Kashmir have worn Pheran for generations, not merely as a functional garment but as a symbol of belonging. Even today, when modern jackets, sweaters, and western fashion flood the markets, the Pheran continues to occupy a special place in Kashmiri hearts and homes.
Even in summer, the cotton Pheran is the best garment to provide full coverage and protection from sunlight, especially with its lace designs. Its use is not accidental; it is emotional, cultural, climatic, and historical. And it is precisely this connection that makes me salute Kashmiris for celebrating Pheran Day, marking not just the arrival of Chilai Kalan, the harshest winter phase, but also honouring the timeless Kashmiri identity woven into this traditional attire.
Pheran a Cultural Inheritance and Expression of Kashmiri Identity, Kashmiris have always associated themselves deeply with what they wear. Clothing is not simply cloth; it becomes behavior, belonging, and expression. In Kashmir, wearing traditional attire is a way of showing regard and respect to one’s community; while keeping alive the values passed from one generation to the next.
The Pheran, at the same time, is totally different from the attire of other states. During any event, Kashmiris always represent the Pheran because of its unique beauty and style. Loose, warm, flowing, and aesthetically adaptable, it represents an ethnic continuity. Whether made of wool, tweed, raffal, velvet, or fine cotton, the Pheran mirrors the valley’s geography and weather patterns, its artistic temperament, and its unique historical encounters with Central Asia, Persia, and the Mughal world.
What makes the Pheran different from other Indian regional attires is its collective character. It dissolves gender, worn by both men and women. It dissolves age, from toddlers to elders, everyone owns one. It dissolves class, villagers, artisans, scholars, traders, and urban professionals all wear it. It even bridges time, having survived through centuries of cultural evolution. Thus, the Pheran is not just clothing; it is the cultural ethic of Kashmiris, an ethic that values modesty, warmth, craftsmanship, and identity.
Pheran has deep historical roots, from ancient to Mughal era. But is has been a debate, historians believe that it travelled to Kashmir through Persian, Tajik, and Central Asian linguistic pathways. Some claim it comes from the Persian word Perahan (shirt), others trace it to a Greek term meaning “cover,” and some linguistic scholars link it to the Tajik word peraband. According to early accounts, as far back as the 15th century, the Pheran was already deeply woven into Kashmiri life, with ancient Kashmiri paintings and Persian manuscripts depicting long robes, loose sleeves, and woollen overlays worn by both genders. The 7th-century Chinese traveller Hiuen Tsang described Kashmiri attire as being similar to that of Persians, long, warm, and loose. Later, historical narratives suggest that the Mughals, particularly Emperor Akbar in 1586, introduced refined versions of the Pheran, bringing Persian tailoring sensibilities to the Valley. Thus, the Pheran evolved as a fusion garment—Persian in spirit, Central Asian in structure, and beautifully Kashmiri in craft and climate utility.
It is the best counter to the 40-day spell of Chilai Kalan, beginning on December 21, when snow blankets rooftops, temperatures plunge, and biting winds demand protective outerwear unlike anything else. The Pheran is stitched precisely for this season—loose-fitting to allow layering of clothes underneath, long and flowing to trap heat, made of wool or tweed for insulation, and perfectly kangri-supportive to accommodate the traditional fire-pot used for warmth. Families gather around with each person wrapped in their Pheran, sharing warmth, conversations, and Kashmiri chai, while children snuggle into their mothers’ Pherans, enjoying the heat of the kangri and listening to winter tales.
There are various types of Pheran, The beauty of the Pheran lies in its versatility, for there is a Pheran suited to every season, mood, and occasion. The Tweed Pheran, thick and coarse and made of handwoven tweed, is a winter essential that protects against freezing cold. To prevent damage from the kangri, a cotton lining called postch (khadir lining) is stitched inside. Tweed Pherans are usually plain, yet their elegance lies in their tailored simplicity. The Raffal (Rafl) Pheran is light, soft, yet warm, perfect for everyday winter wear, and often features embroidered borders that blend simplicity with beauty. The Cotton Pheran, the lightest form, is worn during temperate months and was traditionally common among women who considered the Pheran a year-round dress. For weddings, festivals, and celebrations, Silk and Velvet Pherans are preferred, adorned with elaborate embroidery that reflects Kashmir’s rich artistic heritage.
Tilla embroidery is the most precious and culturally significant adornment on the Pheran. Performed using golden or silver threads, Tilla has long been associated with nobility, dignity, and feminine grace. In traditional customs, every bride is expected to own at least one Tilla-embroidered Pheran as part of her wedding trousseau. While older women once preferred heavier, elaborate Tilla work, today the younger generation embraces it with equal enthusiasm, appreciating its blend of elegance, heritage, and contemporary charm.
Pheran in social life, normal and formal life suits whereverworn indoors and outdoors, for household chores, casual gatherings, and even during prayers. What makes the story remarkable is the garment’s modern transformation. Today, the Pheran simultaneously functions as a fashion statement, a winter essential, a cultural symbol, formal wear in offices and institutions, and a trendy outfit for students and youth. Hooded Pherans, zipper styles, modern cuts, and fusion designs pair effortlessly with jeans, sneakers, boots, hijabs, shawls, or even professional attire. This adaptability and stylistic evolution are among the key reasons the Pheran continues to thrive across generations.
At one point, debates arose about whether the Pheran appeared “outdated” or “unprofessional.” Some urban sections preferred Western jackets and coats, and the new generation gradually drifted away from traditional attire. Modern schooling, professional environments, and globalization all contributed to this slow shift. But cultural clothing is not a burden; it is a heritage. The Pheran is not opposed to modernity—it comfortably coexists with it. No modern garment matches the warmth, comfort, and emotional value of a Pheran. Over time, wearing the Pheran has evolved into an act of cultural confidence rather than resistance to change. It is from this revivalist sentiment that the idea of Pheran Day emerged.
We must celebrate Pheran Day, to remind our new generation about our culture. It reminds Kashmiris that their culture is unique, their traditions are meaningful, Chilai Kalan shapes their lifestyle, and the Pheran is not just attire but identity. There are three major reasons behind celebrating Pheran Day. First is reconnecting the new generation with Kashmiri culture. In an age of globalization, many cultural elements risk fading as young Kashmiris often lean toward Western fashion, forgetting the aesthetics and heritage of their ancestors. Pheran Day revives cultural pride and encourages the youth to reconnect with their roots.
Ask any Kashmiri elder, and they will share stories of winters spent under Pherans, kangri in hand, as snowstorm winds wailed outside. The Pheran carries memories of families huddled together for warmth, of children hiding candies (khensa) in its deep pockets, of mothers carefully fixing the postch to protect the fabric from the heat of the kangri, of winter weddings where brides proudly flaunted Tilla embroidery, of late evening walks wrapped in thick tweed, and of grandparents narrating folktales while seated on traditional carpets. The Pheran is therefore emotional heritage, just as warm to the heart as it is to the body.
It has gained global recognition. From Bollywood films like Rockstar, Jab Tak Hai Jaan, Kashmir ki Kali, Haider, Mission Kashmir, and Bajrangi Bhaijaan to modern fashion photography and tourism campaigns, the Pheran has been showcased repeatedly on national and international platforms. Tourists visiting Kashmir often try the Pheran for photographs, instantly experiencing the unique charm it carries. Its elegance, practicality, and cultural depth make it a favourite among travellers. The fusion appeal, jeans below, sneakers on, and Pheran above, has now become a popular winter trend even outside Kashmir.
Every place has its signature identity, something that instantly evokes its history, geography, and people. For Kashmir, that identity is the Pheran. More than a garment, it represents the warmth of family, the scent of winter, the artistry of generations, the echo of Persia and Central Asia, the comfort of Chilai Kalan, and the beauty of intricate embroidery. It reflects survival against cold, memories of childhood, the grace of Kashmiri women, the dignity of Kashmiri men, and the collective pride of a people. Above all, it is the soul of Kashmiri culture, stitched in wool, woven in history, and carried with love.
Pheran is Kashmir, and Kashmir Lives Through the Pheran, Pheran Day is therefore not just a celebration of clothing; it is the celebration of a civilization’s, beauty, and identity. It reminds Kashmiris that no matter how much the world changes, the threads that bind them to their roots must remain strong. The Pheran is timeless. The Pheran is home. The Pheran is Kashmir.

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