Thursdays and Fridays are special days in the town of Charar-e-Sharief in Kashmir’s Budgam District, for it is on these two days that we see tens of thousands of people from all walks of life congregate at the popular Charar-e-Sharief shrine dedicated to well-known 15th century Sufi mystic, poet and spiritual guide Sheikh-ul-Alam (RA).
The shrine is one of the oldest and sacrosanct shrines for Muslims living in India, and especially for those residing in the Kashmir Valley. Sheikh-ul-Alam (RA) (1377-1438), originally went by the name of Nooruddin Noorani. With the passage of time and the gradual gaining of fame across the length and breadth of Kashmir, he also came to be known as Nund Rishi, sometimes spelt Nund Reshi, for being the pioneer of a new social order – the Rishi Cult. He also went by the honorary title of “Sheikh-ul-Alam (RA)” and was even referred to as "Alamdar-e-Kashmir (RA)" for being a master preacher of Islamic tenets.
He spread a beacon light across all communities that were in existence in Kashmir in those times and also influenced several spiritual teachers and saints, including Hamza Makhdoom, Resh Mir Sàeb and Shamas Faqir.
Sheikh-ul-Alam (RA) was born in what is the modern-day village of Qaimoh in Kulgam district to Salar Sanz and Sadra Moji.
As far as the importance of the shrine is concerned, Thursdays and Fridays are regarded as special days for two reasons – according to the shrine management, Thursday is designated as the day when people from all walks of life and whatever faith, be it Hindu, Christian, Buddhist, Jains, etc., can visit the shrine to seek the blessings of Sheikh-ul-Alam (RA) and his equally famous disciples, whereas on Fridays, Muslim devotees visit for Jumma prayers and for observing other traditional Islamic rituals, prayers and customs.
Brighter Kashmir sought more information about the shrine and its practices from a member of the local Waqf board. Speaking in Kashmiri, he told us that the practices being observed in the 21st century go back to the time when Nund Rishi first started them and shared his spiritual knowledge with his followers.
He further said that the fact that there was such a huge congregation of people, including women, seeking blessings and offering prayers on Thursdays and Fridays was a testimony to the popularity of the shrine and the respect that Nund Rishi still enjoys nearly 500 years after his passing.
When asked about the major problems faced by the shrine board/management, he cited the issue of congested traffic and jams. He said that given the huge popularity that the shrine still enjoys and attracts, the union territory administration should make better arrangements for traffic control and parking, besides provide other facilities to devotees for them to recount their memorable experience to both kith and kin.
The Charar-e-Sharif was originally built in 1460, 22 years after the passing of Nund Rishi. On May 11, 1995, the square-shaped wooden shrine also known as the Hazratbal shrine was taken control of by about 150 militants, including Kashmiri born terrorist Mast Gul. They barred the Imam of the shrine and the keeper of the sacred relics from entering the mosque. An offer of safe passage by the then government was rejected, which resulted in a month-long stand-off.
However, during the intervening night of May 11 and 12, a part of the shrine, the Khanqah (building used for Sufi gatherings), the guard barracks and the Auqaf (charity) offices mysteriously caught fire. There was an explosion that forced the holed up militants to come out in open. Gul managed to escape then only to be eliminated by the Taliban six years later.
The shrine was heavily damaged then and according to the Waqf member, it took several years for it to be restored. The shrine has religious significance in Kashmir’s cultural heritage and is considered one of the holiest places for Muslims.